The last few long trips have left me with aching thighs and thinking how nice it would be to have an alternate position to rest my feet now and then.
Craig Nedrow of Bay Machine Works advertises a Highway Peg kit for the Concours. Craig was easy to contact and deal with by email and my kit arrived in a few days. Unfortuntely, Craig seems to have moved, or at least changed Internet providers, as I no longer have working contact information for him.
What Craig supplies is a set of mounting brackets that fit on the front of the bike (replacing the radiator hanger bolts) and protrude through the front side fairings. Standard Connie footpegs will fit on the brackets, but Craig’s kit does not include the pegs. I stole my passenger pegs and ordered replacements for them from my dealer.
I found installing this kit fairly simple, but a bit intimidating, especially since it involved drilling through the fairing. Any time I’m nervous about mechanical work I keep a photo record, so here are the detailed steps to installation. This isn’t necessarily the best or only approach, but it worked for me.
I am not a mechanic or a representative of Kawasaki or anything else official. This page is only my notes on doing this procedure myself. Although I believe what I have documented here is correct, I make no promises and you do this at your own risk.
Let me make something clearer since I’ve received a couple of unexpected emails: I do not sell motorcycle parts or equipment. I can’t sell you these pegs or anything else. I’m just a rider like you. Please stop sending me price quote requests and orders.
Put a standoff in the hole vacated by the bolt and snug it up, but don’t bring it to final tightness since you’ll need to remove it again.A 19 mm open-end wrench will turn the standoff by the recess milled into the large end.
My left-side shield ended up looking like this.The right-side procedure was the same, but the shape was somewhat different, so you definitely want to do these jobs one at a time — don’t try to take short cuts.
Now the heart-wrenching part. You need to drill a 1-1/2″ hole in the fairing for the standoff to pass through.Craig gives measurements of approximately where this hole should go. I marked out a 2″ square on the inside, showing approximately where the hole would be.
Trim the supplied weather stripping to length and install it around the inside edge of the new hole.Here in Ottawa, the material was quite stiff on the cold night I did this. I heated it by sitting it in the protective cage of my halogen work lamp for a minute and it softened up and became easy to bend.
Re-install the standoff and tighten it. (The angle of the milled face does not matter as it has no supporting role.) Then reinstall the fairing.Here is the fairing fitted over the standoff, and you can just see the weather stripping guarding the perimeter of the hole.
The bracket has a top and bottom. The hole on the top side is counterbored, while the hole on the bottom side is straight through. Install with the bracket tipping forward about 20 degrees.Late Note: In my first long ride, I found these screws quite vulnerable to engine vibration, and had to re-tighten them on the road. Install with a generous helping of loc-tite.
Reassemble fairings, belly pan, and so on, and you are done. Here is the new peg in its retracted position.Repeat as appropriate on the other side of the bike.
Here is the peg folded back not in use, . . .
Update: On one long trip last year, I went to put my feet on the pegs and discovered I had no right peg. The c-clip had come off, and the mounting pin vibrated out of the hole.
I bought a cheap set of round aluminum sportbike pegs to replace the pegs shown above. More important, I drilled a 1/16″ hole through the Clevis pins, below the channel for the C-clip, and put a cotter pin through each Clevis pin after mounting, so they cannot come out. There have been no more problems. (In fact, I haven’t lost another C-clip, so I think maybe it wasn’t seated properly.)