Throttlemeister Installation on Concours

The left unit is the “dummy”, to replace the left-hand bar end weight. The right unit contains a bronze piston that moves outward slightly when the exterior shell is rotated.

The ThrottleMeister replaces the existing (black) bar-end weights, so they have to be removed. They are held in place by a hex bolt, covered by a plastic plug.

Pry the plastic plug out. I found I had to turn it back and forth a bit, using pliers, first, before I could get the tip of a screwdriver under the plastic for prying.

Using a 6mm hex wrench (not supplied) remove the bolt and the bar-end weight.

There might be a black washer stuck to the end of the bar. Remove it too if it’s there.

Assemble the throttle-side ThrottleMeister. It comes with a bunch of shims (washers). Put two of the regular thickness ones in, over the bolt, then put the machined cylinder in on top of them.

Tighten the ThrottleMeister onto the bar.

Test the tightness and adjust by adding or removing shims (take off, adjust, and reinstall each time). If it is too loose to hold the throttle, remove a shim or replace one of the standard shims with a thin one. If it is too tight, and won’t let the throttle turn freely when in the “off” position, add shims.

After you have the right shim selection, take it off one more time and put a small dab of blue LocTite on the threads, then reinstall and tighten.

Finally, install a pair of tiny decals (supplied) that let you see whether the lock is engaged or not.

Turning the steel shell in the same direction as opening the throttle moves the bronze piston (visible between the shell and the hand grip) slightly to the left, pressing on the end of the rubber handgrip and holding the throttle.

Total time is about an hour, most of which is playing with various shim combinations.

The left unit has no mechanism. Assemble it with any spare shims (this is a good place to store them so you’ll have them if you ever need to do an adjustment on the road), LocTite the threads, and put it on.