Installing Givi Luggage on a GPZ-1100

The wingrack is the shallow box, about 5 major pieces, tail lights, and hardware. The GPz mounting kit is a long box, as it holds a pair of long steel racks (shown below) along with other hardware.

Remove the seat. Disconnect the wires leading to the tail lights, and remove the tail lights. (Reach underneath the rear plastic and unbolt the lights.)

Label the wires where the new tail lights will be connected (left and right) before you forget which is which.

Before you put the old tail lights away, remove the bulbs — the replacement units don’t come with bulbs.

Remove the rear passenger handle and then the side panels. Note the grommeted hole where the tail light used to be — later you’ll thread the wire for the new lights through this hole.

Remove the bungee hooks from the underside, both sides.

Using those mounting holes, 4 right-angle brackets are bolted in place. The brackets are not all the same size — two are longer. Pay close attention to the instructions about which go to the front and which to the rear. (The two with one longer side go at the front, with the longer side hanging down.)

Tighten these bolts securely, but

Don’t tighten anything else from this point on — just snug the remaining bolts. There are lots of parts to fit to close tolerances, and if you tighten things you’ll only have to loosen them again.

Mount the lower mounting bracket. This is the shorter s-shaped steel tube. You remove the chrome bolt holding the rear passenger foot peg, pass it through the hole in the forward end of the mounting bracket, and reinstall. (Green circle shown here.) Don’t tighten it yet.

The holes shown circled in magenta will later receive bolts from the wingrack side panels.

Same procedure on the other side of the bike.

Install the upper rack.

It’s shown here traced in magenta. Mounted with 3 bolts, shown circled in green. The rear two holes bolt to the angle brackets where the bungee hooks used to be. The forward bolt passes through a U-shaped bracket that you place over the existing steel frame bracket (light blue outline here). A large plastic cylinder goes inside each U-bracket to prevent it from collapsing as the bolt is tightened.

Don’t tighten anything.

Same procedure on the other side of the bike.

Mount the Wingrack side panel to the holes in the upper and lower brackets. This is the awkward point where you’ll be glad you left some play in those other mounting bolts.

Don’t tighten anything.

Same procedure on the other side of the bike.

Now mount the top corner brackets on both sides of the wing rack. The (optional) tail lights are held between the two pieces of the bracket, by the same bolt.

There’s a tight fit where a nut, embedded in the upper rack in a hex hole, *just* fits under the steel of the tubular mounting rack. It does fit, just work at the angles.

Mount the top bracket, across the two wingrack sides.

Run the wires from the tail lights through the former tail light holes, up inside the bike, and reconnect them. Test the signals now, before everything is covered up. I found a couple of black nylon cable ties helped tidy the exposed cable.

A slightly bent black tube, bored and threaded at each end, fits inside between the rear ends of the left and right upper mounting brackets, with bolts through counterbored holes in the mounting bracket. The left side of this arrangement is shown here — the bar is marked in magenta and the screw through the bracket is marked in green. The slight bend allows the tube to dip under the rear reflector.

Now tighten everything, in the same order you installed. The last thing you tighten will be the top wingrack bracket. It has slots, through which the mounting bolts pass, so you can adjust left-right to get it centred.

Reassemble the side panels, handle, and seat.